I am supposed to be writing a post about Turkey. It was the next destination on the list and I have a pile of photos destined for this page. I think they call it writers block, I’ve been suffering from it for a few weeks now, but I have recently found some new inspiration. Arancini. – Yes, this is where you start calling me “Nonna”.
Ortigia, Syracuse - Sicily
The love affair all started back in old Sicily, Syracuse to be exact. To be truly honest before then I was never particularly fond of Arancini, they tended to evoke memories of fried, lukewarm balls of overcooked rice, handed around at cocktail functions. Cheap fillers, efficient at absorbing alcohol. Every caterer’s dream.
It was when I visited Sicily in July 2011, I discovered that there is a whooooole other calibre of Arancini. Shaped in cones, rounds like plump oranges or croquette like fingers and filled with fragrant ragu or porcini, spinach and cheese or artichoke, there was an array of flavours and styles everywhere you went. By far the best Arancino I had in Sicily was this one from a very unassuming place in Ortiga, Syracuse.
"The" Arancino from Ortigia
Need I say more??? That gooey cheese, that rich sauce!
I have been craving one of those carbo packed, deep-fried cheesy balls of goodness for the last 2 months. So on Saturday I set out on a challenge to make one just like it!
Sicily's Favourite Recipes
Lucky I had nabbed up a small Sicilian cookbook when I was there and so I was armed with the goods to tackle the challenge. But I needed one last thing, a little pep talk from my mamma, the woman who taught me everything I know about Italian food. – Awwww. Of course my mum is Veneto though and they don’t cook Arancini at the top end of Italy so, mum took out our battered copy of Il Cucchiaio D’Argento, handed down from my great aunt who brought it from Italy light years ago.
If you’re not familiar with it, “The Silver Spoon” is like the encylopedia of Italian food, so we figured it would have a pretty authentic recipe. It went something like this (translated of course, with my commentary):
“Boil rice. (what kind of rice mum? Just rice. How much? doesn’t say.) Stir through butter and grated cheese (what kind of cheese mum? Just cheese. How much? Doesn’t say.) Put some rice in your hand, make a hole in the middle with your fingers, fill with ragu, put some more rice ontop and seal to form a ball. Dip in egg and then breadcrumbs and fry until golden.”
Hmmmmm. Helpful. Certainly authentic, it’s assumed that if you’re Italian you were born with an innate ability to cook Arancini. Back to my “Recipes of Sicily” cookbook it was and at the risk of opening myself up to abuse from real Sicilian Nonna’s out there, who have spent years quietly perfecting the art, while I swoop in and blog about it like I’m all that… Here it is peeps (Warning, its long – just like my blog posts!):
Arancini di Riso con Ragu
(Rice Balls with Meat Sauce Filling)
Adapted from Sicily’s Favourite Recipes, Sime Books.
Ragu:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
1 stick celery, finely diced
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
400g piece stewing beef
100ml red wine
250g tomato paste approx.
500-750ml water
3 bay leaves
3 cloves
1 strip orange rind, dried in the oven for about 10 minutes at 100C
1 pinch cinnamon
salt, to taste
1 cup blanched peas
It recommends making the ragu the day before. The quanitites above are half the orginal recipe and I had enough sauce to freeze and make arancini 3 times over.
1. Fry onion, carrot and celery in olive oil over low heat until soft. Turn up the heat, add meat and brown on all sides.
2. Pour in the red wine and allow to bubble for about 30 seconds before adding, tomato paste, enough water to come three-quarters of the way up the meat and all the aromatics. Season with salt, bring to a gentle simmer, cover and transfer to a hot oven.
3. Bake at about 170C for approx. 2-3 hours, checking every now and again and adding more water if necessary. The meat should be falling apart. Add the peas and cook for a further 5 minutes.
4. Remove the meat and aromatics. Shred or chop the meat into small pieces and return to the sauce. Cool.
This is what mine looked like:
Ragu to fill the arancini
For the Rice:
500g Carnaroli or Vialone Nano Rice
100g freshly grated parmesan cheese
knob of butter
3g saffron threads steeped in 2 tablespoons boiling water
Boil the rice in salted water until al dente. Drain and return to the saucepan with the butter, cheese and saffron and soaking water.
Stir until cheese is melted and rice is sticky.
To assemble:
8-10 cubes mozzarella or cheddar cheese
bowl of plain flour
bowl of beaten eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper
bowl of breadcrumbs
I found it easiest to work with when the rice was lukewarm and the ragu was cold. Have a bowl of water next to you, wet hands are the key to not ending up with rice all over yourself and the kitchen.
So, take a mandarin sized ball of rice in your hand and make a hole in the middle with your fingers so that you have a nest shape, you do have to fiddle a bit.
Rice "nest" before you fill the arancino
I didn’t steep the saffron properly so my “nests” are a little anaemic… but you get the point.
Once you have a nice little nest, take a heaped teaspoon or so of the cool ragu and fill the nest then pop in a cube of cheese (don’t be stingy with the cheese!).
Packing it all in - the more filling you can put in the better they taste!
Using your other hand, take a little patty of rice and place on top of the ragu, shape the ball around in your hand until you have a round sealed ball.
nearly done, just a bit of shaping and finishing!
I allowed them to cool on a tray before I crumbed them. Can I just add – doesn’t this look like a whole lot of hard work? And there is still more to go! At this point I’m thinking I might just go find a decent sicilian restaurant… or a real Nonna.
Arancini - just chilling out before getting crumbed
To crumb the arancini. Roll each cold ball in flour, then in beaten eggs and finally in breadcrumbs. – Remember use one wet hand and keep the other dry, to save you crumbing you fingers!
Deep-fry the balls in hot oil (I used vegetable oil, you can use canola, peanut sunflower, or light olive oil) until golden brown.
The production line - cooking the arancini
At this stage you can cool and freeze the Arancini or refrigerate until you’re ready to eat them. If you want to eat them straight away, pop them in the oven for 10 minutes to warm right through.
Golden fresh arancini
I like to serve them in my Nonna’s old bowls, with a little runny Napoli sauce drizzled over the top and freshly grated parmesan!! Ta Da!!
Buon Appetito! The finished product
What do you think?? Check out the inside -I didn’t really get the full effect in this shot but you get the idea.
Mmmm, delicious!
For next time, I would try and make the rice shell a little thinner so that I can put more ragu and cheese in the middle. I think that’s a skill that comes with years of practise and true Nonna status. But I was pretty happy with my Arancini and recommend the recipe (if you are a complete nerd like me and can be bothered spending a whole saturday cooking Arancini). I have heaps of ragu leftover in the freezer which will hopefully making cooking the babies a whole lot quicker next time! Anyone want to come over and help me?